![]() And if one of your riding buddies has a higher front-end, try and test their bike to see how it feels. Instead of jumping from a 10mm rise stem to a 30mm, use spacers first. It’s likely that you’ll loop out because you’re used to pulling harder but that extra rise doesn’t require that much effort anymore. Plus, I also found that the higher my front end gets, the simpler the nose manuals are.īUT you need to know that transitioning to a too-high-rise stem might require a getting-used-to-it phase.Įspecially if your chainstay is super short. Thus, your manuals will get easier, and you’ll also bunnyhop much more effortlessly. This will give you a more STABLE FEEL and some additional leverage to pull your bike up more easily. With a higher rise, you’ll be less hunched over and more in an upward position. Note: A front load stem will have a much lower rise than a top load stem. ![]() It goes anywhere from around 10mm to 35mm. ![]() The rise is the measurement from the bottom of the stem to the center of the bar clamping area. Let’s start with the stem rise because elevating your bike’s front-end is getting increasingly popular (I raised it significantly). You just need to know the right BMX stem size and pick accordingly.Ī new (your IDEAL) stem can be a fantastic upgrade that can help you progress faster. If you need stability, there’s a stem for that.Īnd if you need responsiveness, there’s also a stem for that. The last two don’t really have an impact on how your bike feels, but the first two can completely change the game. Friendly Reminder: Save BIG On Dan's Comp! (Click Banner)
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